Morning ride to Pireaus on the Flying Dolphin

Our mission was to get into Athens for the Italian consulate, open only from 9 – 11:30 AM which we discovered at 12:30 PM the previous Tuesday. We needed to check out visa details for our return to Toronto via Rome. Thursday is visa day – not Tuesday when we first went there. Note that stays in EU technically may last 90 days as a visitor without penalty. However each country has its own jurisdiction. Italy is most hospitable and, if visiting, you may stay as long as you wish as a tourist. Greece on the other hand may require an extension through Ministry of Immigration if your stay exceeds 90 days. It could be a hefty fine on leaving if you take the risk – 2 or 3 hundred Euros.

The morning seas were pretty calm, but the ride was a bit rolly and bumpy as we sped across the waters. In rough weather, the Dolphins are first to stop service. I image they are pretty much unsinkable, but the ride would be more than many would like to experience. In fact, friends of ours who bought a home on the island of Hydra, also in our Saronic neighbourhood, found it when they were on their way to more distant Spetsis on the Dolphin and the seas kicked up.

Breakfast at the Port

We arrived in Pireaus amongst the ferries, of all description, destined for the many island clusters, as well as the enormous cruise ships the size of buildings and, of course, the trusty tugboats. I couldn’t wait to get to one of the many vendors for a quick on-the-run breakfast of koulouri, a traditional round biscuit thingy made with sesame seeds. I like mine crispy and Athan likes his soft. You get to choose but I think I just got yesterday’s batch. Crafty marketing!

Tooting around Athens and environs is really quick and easy on the Metro system expanded and improved for the 2004 Olympics. The trip from the busy port of Pireaus to the centre of Athens is about 25 minutes. The train cars are a work of art as you can see. Graffiti is everywhere and sometimes on historic monuments where it is really heartbreaking to see. This photo is at the Monasteraki station. As you pull away from the station, you actually ride through some ruins!

Graffiti on Metro Cars

The three metro lines intersect and take the traveller all over the region. One ticket lasts 1 1/2 hours so you can make good use of your 1.40 Euro (about 2 dollars). Super fast trains and bright modern stations, automated ticket purchase and, often, classical music makes this way of travel easy, safe and pleasant. Many of the stations house displays or under-glass excavated sites for the travellers to see while passing. The subway took extra long to complete because every time ancient artifacts were unearthed, everything stopped until the site was carefully documented and preserved. It’s really entrancing to see how advanced plumbing and various building systems were.

Fruit Vendors at Monasteraki

In the ever active platea (square) outside of the station was a wonderful band playing pan flutes and South American music. Bands change up every half hour or so and can include everything from traditional Bouzoukia to African Tribal Drumming. This is the centre for shopping and the flea market with tavernas vying for business. The fruit kiosks are overflowing!

Hellenic Seaways Ferry
Port of Pireaus

Later in the day we took the more sedate Hellenic Seaways ferry back to the island. See the truck driving out of the ship’s hold? This was as we watched it come into port before our return. Right after it was a tour bus followed by countless cars! The ferry is much larger and takes longer than the Dolphin but we enjoy the time, passing the freighters anchored just outside the harbour waiting to offload, and then past the islands – some inhabited, some not. Seating is lounge-like and comfy for a nap and a snack bar provides essentials. Just as we near the Port of Aegina, the seagulls flock around the ferry in welcome and I’m sure for a morsel tossed in the air by a passenger. They fly at the same speed as the ferry so it seems as if they are still in the air and their lovely details of tucked yellow feet, pristine white feathers and tiny red smudge on beak are clearly visible. They fly just beyond a long reach.

Seagulls shepherd the ferries into port at Aegina

That evening we bought a ticket for the ferry to send a special (to be announced) package to our friends, Pamela Rogers and Francis Broun on the neighbouring island of Poros (hint: it’s in the bag I’m carrying). While we were waiting for the ferry between Aegina and Poros, we stopped for a glass of wine at one of the many cafes along the harbour walk. Lovely to watch the sail boats come in and how deftly an experienced captain can maneuver one of these large boats into a small space. Sailors are a special lot, and everyone lends a hand to assist a docking.

Sailboats Aegina Harbour

We handed off our package to the purser and hopped into our island ride – the wee Smart car – generously shared by our good friend Matina Chronopoulou. Matina is the one who told us of our wonderful house overlooking the sea. We are happy that she has taken another ‘windmill’ house in the town of Souvala, just down the road, where she will manage her practice between here and Athens as well as host weekend health seminars. (More on that later!)

Glam Ride – Small but Mighty …Smart!

Home in time for the sunset. We will miss our island home – but are looking forward to many hugs and happy reunions in Toronto!

Sunset from our terrace

Me agapi! (mee aghappi) – with love)

Marilyn

P.S.I didn’t mention the ubiquitous yellow taxis of Athens because we didn’t happen to need one yesterday – however they are plentiful, fast and inexpensive.  Just hop in and say “Pame sto {fill in the blank}”” (Pah may stoh (let’s go to {address} and don’t forget to say “para kalo” (parra cal-loh – please) and “Efxaristo” (eff harri stoh – thank you)